Removed the tires as put them away for club nights, only going to use CRC Spec tires at big events now.
I always start with a diff rebuild. I get it stripped down and put the balls in a pot ready for cleaning. 
I always give the spur gear a good clean with a cotton bud.
I try and reuse the steel balls a couple of times so I give them a good clean with brake cleaner.
I also give the diff ring a sand to get the groove out. One on the left is before sanding, one on the right is after sanding.
I also give the bearings a good blast. It is always key to check the outer bearing. I learnt when I was doing 1/12th that you can build the most perfect diff and if there was a small problem with that outer bearing it can make the diff feel horrible and notchy. I start with the axle and the first diff ring. I put a small amount of grease on that plate.
Then I put on the spur with balls in and the bearing. I then put a small dab of grease on each of the balls. Then I assemble the rest of the diff as usual.
Seen as it is the start of the new national season I got a new Trinity D3. Got that soldered in ready.
Whilst the rear end was apart I checked the rear pivot. I took the rear bodymounts off including side springs and dampers. I put the car flat on a setup board then undid the pivot mounts. I then realigned the chassis and links then tightened up the nuts on the pivot mount. It is important to check that once you have done everything up tight that the rear pod moves freely with no resistance. This can only be done with the springs and dampers off the car.
Next was to clean out and refill the side dampers. One thing I notice people doing at races when refilling the dampers is they don't check for air bubbles in the grooves. I am using 12500wt diff oil in the dampers at the minute. Once I apply it I let it rest for a while to let the air bubbles come out.
Once both are done I reassemble to rear completely. Now its time to concentrate on the front end.
I love the new cross brace and plate. It allows the front to be completely seperated from the car to be worked on.
When I took off the front suspension from the plate I sat it on the setup board and happen to notice it was every so slightly tweaked. This is something I didn't notice when I built it but the servo being attached flat against the carbon plate was causing the tweak. To get round this I tried to leave a small gap between the servo and the plate when screwing it to the mounts. Hard to get a pic of but you can see a small amount of the setup board through the gap to the right of the servo.
Next I started striping, cleaning and rebuilding the front suspension. This is the perfect time to check for weak/broken parts. When stripping down the front left I noticed a crack in the pivot ball housing. This obviously happened in the last final at ardent. Swapped this out for a new part.
After that I rebuilt everything up and checked camber. A set of used but retrued CRC Spec tires on and we are all set to go!
So now I have just got to wait two weeks to use it!! Can't wait for the nationals this year, hopefully the numbers will be good. I have a feeling there is going to a fair amount of competition. Hopefully the 2s vs 1s debate won't put people off as the last Ardent A final was a 50/50 split of 1s and 2s cars.
Make sure you check out http://www.rc-pancar.co.uk a great resource for all stuff pan car related, F1 GT and mardave included.
